Perched on the side of a cliff between Mount Agung and the Lombok Strait, Amankila boasts a most enviable location. It feels remote and secluded here, though just 90 minutes from Denpasar. This was the perfect place to begin our journey in Bali, working through jet-lag with long, lazy days lounging at cabanas at the black sand beach and the stunning three-tiered terrace pool. Although the property and rooms are in need of refurbishment (notably, the fitness center and spa), the views, activities, and service were all top-notch, with a solid dining program to boot. We would happily return here, preferably once the resort is updated with refreshed rooms and a new wellness center.

Overview

At-a-Glance

• Date of stay: May 2022

• Length of stay: 4 night / 5 days

• Trip type: Family expedition around Bali

• Property type: Luxury cliffside beach resort and spa catering mostly to couples but welcoming to families

• Tailor-made for: Beachgoers and adventure seekers alike

Highlights

• Naturally shaded black sand beach with plenty of beach cabanas, water sports equipment and beach toys; lifeguard on duty is a major plus

• Terraced pool and cabanas — the two cabanas closest to the ocean and smallest pool are best for families with young kids

• Breakfast and roundtrip airport transfers included

• Chocolate ice cream in ice igloos

• Quality, locally-crafted nightly turndown gifts with accompanying “bedtime stories”

• Arrival welcome and departure ceremony and gifts — special and memorable

• Incredible sunrises from the main restaurant — get there around 6 for the best seats and views

• Guided trek from Kastala to Tenganan village followed by visit to Honeybee Farm and Luwak Coffee Agrotourism to see how Balinese coffee and honey are made

Good to Know

• Ocean plastic pollution is a major problem around Bali, and here is no exception; the beach is cleaned every morning but if you are an early riser, expect to see lots of garbage

• Rooms (bathroom fixtures in particular) are outdated and in need of a refresh

• Beach Club pool is fantastic, but shade is scarce — best to visit here early morning before the heat gets too intense

• The spa and fitness center are in need of an overhaul — supposedly, the owners have the acreage and plans to build a wellness center, but no word on when that is supposed to occur

• Long-tenured team members were attentive but overwhelmed from being understaffed post-pandemic — at times, service was quite slow

• The idyllic ocean views are punctuated by lots of oil tankers, but they are not noisy

• It is very quiet here — great for babies and older kids, but noisy children (like ours) will get sideways looks

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Location & Setting

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Arriving at Bali Denpasar Airport (DPS) was, surprisingly, a breeze after spending more than 24 hours in the air. We had pre-booked an immigration fast-track service through the resort at 70 USD/pp. which meant we were escorted as soon as we stepped off the plane through the arrival process, and got access to the expedited diplomatic lane at customs and immigration.

After meeting our driver (roundtrip airport transfers included in room rate), we were whisked away on a 1.5 hour journey through East Bali until we reached the resort’s gated entrance and guard stand. After the car underwent a bomb check (standard across Bali), we proceeded to the main building for check-in.

While we arrived by car, the resort also has a helipad for those who prefer to arrive by air.

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Property & Grounds

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Designed by Ed Tuttle, Amankila is an architectural stunner set on the cliffside overlooking the Lombok Strait. With just 34 treetop suites linked by a series of interconnected stilted walkways, this resort feels incredibly secluded and private. In addition to its unique accommodations, Amankila also has two pools, a private black sand beach, multiple dining options, a fitness pavilion and massage pavilion (though these were in need of refurbishment), a boutique, and a plethora of activities available on-site and off-site.

The views were absolutely stunning, and it was evident why this was the third site selected by Aman to build a world-class design resort (after Amanpuri in Phuket and Amandari in Ubud). We had heard complaints about all the oil tankers spoiling the ocean views — this didn’t really bother us as they weren’t noisy, but we could see how some people would find this off-putting.

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Room

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All 34 suites at Amankila have the same interior layout. What differs is their location / view and exterior amenities. For example, some suites come with private pools.

We booked two Garden Suites through TripAdvisor Plus at a significant savings. The suites are spacious enough to have up to 2 babies / young children stay in the same room with parents, but we wanted to make sure everyone had plenty of space since we were staying here 4 nights.

The 1k+ square foot Garden Suite configuration includes a canopy King bed with desk, window-side divan and daybed, large bathroom with separate tub and shower, Toto robotic toilet and bidet, an expansive terrace with outdoor lounge bed, table, and writing desk with ocean views. Lots of bottled water — the tap water on Bali is not drinkable, don’t even brush teeth with it at risk of getting “Bali Belly”.

While the suites were clearly made with high quality craftsmanship and a unique design, they were in need of refurbishment. Some of our bathroom fixtures actually fell off during our stay and the staff glued them back on.

During our stay, we toured the 7k+ square foot Amankila Suite private complex (pictured above and 1st picture below). This is the highest room category available at Amankila and comes with two suites, a large private pool and outdoor living area with two bales and two koi ponds, and dedicated butler service. This compound within the resort is ideal for larger families, small groups, or guests looking for the ultimate in privacy. Notably, you can typically book the Amankila Suite for about the same price as an entry-level suite at Amangiri in Utah.

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Service

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The service here was incredibly warm, personalized, and attentive. Most of the team members we met had been with the resort since it opened, or not long after. Akira, the GM, greeted us when we arrived on his first day at Amankila (he was previously at Aman Tokyo). There were at least 8 other team members who greeted us when we arrived, and it was about the same when we departed, which was a special touch.

The welcome amenities (drinks, fruit, and snacks) and nightly turndown gifts (local hand-crafted artisanal goods with “bedtime stories” explaining their origin and use) were incredibly generous.

Hubert, the Food and Beverage Manager, was fantastic and deserves special commendation along with his team.

While the service was incredibly attentive, it was clear during our stay that staff were overstretched based on the waiting times at some meals. We heard from more than one team member that they were still significantly understaffed from the pandemic even though the resort was almost back to pre-pandemic guest capacity.

Also, while we met Akira when we arrived, we never saw him again, which seemed unusual. The GMs at the other two resorts we stayed at during our trip to Bali regularly rounded with guests which made our stays at those places feel personal and high-touch.

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Dining

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Amankila has multiple open-air dining options: The Restaurant, Beach Club, The Bar, The Terrace (poolside dining), Harvest Table (private dining), and In-Room Dining.

Overall, we thought the dining program at Amankila was quite good, though wine prices in Indonesia are sky-high (not just at Amankila). Breakfasts were our absolute favorite, though the girls loved the chocolate ice cream served in ice igloos with a waffle cone swirl at The Terrace and The Restaurant. We didn’t eat at the Beach Club, but the menu was similar to the poolside dining menu.

There was an almost mystical ambience at The Restaurant at night between the candle light, the live Balinese xylophonists, and the scent of incense burning alongside offerings at two Buddhist shrines. It was also relatively cool here in the evenings, thanks in part to the ocean breeze but also to the large fans in The Restaurant that were on each evening.

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Family Services & Amenities

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While it was mostly couples staying here, the resort was kid-friendly. There were kids bathrobes in the room, though no kids toiletries. The girls loved the jar of coconut chocolate chip mini cookies in the room which were generously refilled. The resort can also provide cribs and rollaway beds.

There was also a small kids playroom in the main building, which was a nice touch. When we went to the beach, team members brought the girls a basket of beach toys.

Kids menus were provided as part of the regular menu. Resort staff did a great job of bringing kids meals out fast and first.

That said, if you are looking for a property that is stroller-friendly, this is not it. There are stairs everywhere. Lots and lots of stairs.

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Activities

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Amankila offers loads of activities, especially for having such a small number of suites. The primary activities are the pools, beach, water sports, bicycles (the resort has several available onsite) and local treks.

There are 150 steep stair steps from the Terrace pool to the beach, though a buggy is available to transport guests, as well. The private, shaded, black sand beach has 8 private bales (cabanas) set back along the tree line for privacy and shade. While the beach and water are gorgeous, it’s important to know that ocean plastics pollution in Bali is a major problem. Although people clean the beach each morning and throughout the day, if you are an early riser, expect to see a lot of garbage on the beach.

The resort offers a complimentary shuttle service to two nearby villages if guests wish to dine offsite or explore the area.

There is also an Aman private yacht that can be chartered for cruises around the area or beyond.

We booked two activities while staying here, both of which were highlights.

The 3-hour guided morning trek from Kastala to Tenganan village took us along the UNESCO-listed subak irrigation system through breathtaking rice paddy fields at the foot of Mount Agung. The earlier you leave, the better to beat the heat. Our kids (5 and 7) were about as young as I would recommend for this excursion unless they will be in a carry pack.

In Tenganan Village, we got to meet local artisans, one of whom was a double ikat artisan, a favorite of celebrities and whose work is displayed in prominent museums around the world. Afterward, we toured nearby Luwak Coffee and Honeybee Agritourism. The kids had the best time grinding coffee, seeing a Luwak, learning what was so special about Luwak coffee (if you don’t know, it’s worth looking up), and sampling the honey from stingless Balinese honeybees.

The Tamansari Breakfast (generously gifted to us by the resort) was a great way to end our stay. We will never forget viewing the sunrise over Mount Agung from a private hillside bale while eating a sumptuous breakfast with freshly-made strawberry banana smoothies, and watching the kids make “nature stew” in the little garden.

View their full list of activities here.

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Wellness

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While the resort offers plenty of wellness oriented activities and healthy dining options, the fitness center and spa were in need of an overhaul. The Fitness Pavilion was a converted suite with an out-of-order treadmill, elliptical, and a set of weights. The small Massage Pavilion — not a full Spa — was located nearby. We were told that the owners had purchased roughly 5 acres adjacent to the resort to build a proper wellness center but there was no official word yet on when development would begin, but the unofficial estimate was around 2-3 years.

On the plus side, there’s a beachside yoga deck with yoga and movement classes, as well as an outdoor gym near the Beach Club.

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Wow Factor

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What delivered the greatest “wow” here was the stunning location, architecture and design, and thoughtful service touches like the personalized attention, welcome amenities, and nightly turndown gifts.

We also loved the gorgeous pools and private black sand beach with lounge-all-day cabanas, and solid dining with delicious breakfasts — with the Tamansari Breakfast being a special highlight. However, with the property and rooms in need of refurbishment, lack of a quality fitness center and spa, and beach plastics problem, the wow factor was a mixed bag.

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Value

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The value here was quite good by Aman standards, but not so much compared to other resorts of similar calibre on the island. On the plus side, breakfasts and airport transfers were included in the room rate. Dining prices were also reasonable for hotels of this standard (with the exception of wine, as previously noted). There were generous welcome amenities, nightly turndown gifts, and departure gifts. Also, there was no fee to reserve the beach or pool cabanas, which was a plus.

Because we got a good deal and spent so much time at the beach and pools, the value was solid. However, the normal room rates seem steep given the overall state of the rooms and the property.

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Overall

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We had a wonderful stay here and would certainly welcome the opportunity to come here again, but would likely wait until the resort is refurbished and the new wellness center opens. If having a top-notch spa, fitness center, and/or kids club are important to you, this probably isn’t the best pick. If, however, you’re looking for utter beauty, privacy, solid dining, attentive service, and relaxing days at the pool and on the beach, Amankila is a great choice, and the location feels quite secluded and off the tourist track. Overall, we thought this was a great place to ride out our jet lag and make some great memories along the way.

Rating Legend*

💛💛💛💛💛 Exceptional

💛💛💛💛 Notable

💛💛💛 Standard

💛💛 Substandard

💛 Unsatisfactory

*All ratings are relative to similar-class properties